Our Facials

Dry Skin

Dry, dehydrated skin can be a temporary condition or a lifelong concern. Dry skin can be genetically determined or a product of an increasingly stressful lifestyle coupled with continual exposure to the sun, wind and chemicals in the environment. It can also be caused by the use of inappropriate products on the skin: meaning it is extremely important that skin care professionals are highly trained in properly diagnosing dry, dehydrated skin for the most effective treatment and product regimen.

Dry, or dehydrated?
Before addressing the causes, it’s important to know the difference between dry and dehydrated skin.

• Dry skin, or allipoid skin, generally refers to skin that is lacking in oil.
• Dehydrated skin is characterized by lack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum.

Even oily skin can experience dehydration. As mentioned, dehydration is a lack of water, not oil. This means sebaceous oil activity can still be normal or even overactive in dehydrated skin.

Both dry and dehydrated skin can experience:

• Irritation, inflammation, itchiness and sensitivity.
• A feeling of tightness or tautness.
• A look or feel of roughness.
• Slight to severe flaking and scaling.
• Fine lines, severe redness and cracks that can sometimes bleed.

The top three causes of dry, dehydrated skin:

Intrinsic Aging
Intrinsic aging is the normal process of physical change over time that’s more about genetics than lifestyle. (Lifestyle-induced aging is known as premature or extrinsic aging.) Sebaceous gland activity tends to decrease with age, and the skin’s natural hydrators decline over the years. The skin’s ability to regenerate lipids comprising the protective lipid barrier layer of the Stratum Corneum also declines with age, as does blood flow to the skin, which may cause a drop in sebum production.

Weather/Environmental Elements
Prolonged exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from skin, which is why sunburned skin requires more moisture than unexposed areas. Cold winds, air conditioning units, forced air heating and low temperatures can also dry out skin and contribute to premature aging.

Lifestyle
The trend of fat-free diets can deprive our bodies of skin-friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). This deficiency can result in chronic itching, dryness, scaling, thinning and can lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation).

Excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin or dehydrated skin.

Facial recommended is Microdermabrasion or Clayton Shagal Anti-aging Facial!

Changes Associated with Aging Skin

If we look at skin that has only endured normal intrinsic or chronological aging, without environmental influences, it is smooth and generally unblemished. There are exaggerated expression lines on the skin, but by and large, the skin is well preserved. Under the microscope, we will see some signs of aging, which include a flattening of the epidermal-dermal interface and some breakdown of the dermal tissue.

In direct contrast, extrinsically-aged skin (such as that found on our face, hands and chest) is wrinkled, sallow in color and has areas of hyper- and hypopigmentation. Skin may show a loss of tone and elasticity, increased fragility, areas of purpura caused by blood vessel weakness and benign lesions such as keratoses, telangiectasis and skin tags. Under the microscope, discreet changes are evident in the collagen and elastin, which are now fragmented and thick, indicative of the cross-linking that is associated with wrinkle formation.

Scientists have found more modern ways to address the issue of wrinkles, skin discoloration, the breakdown of collagen and elastin, dehydration and the slowdown of cell turnover through understanding the biochemical reactions that trigger these structural changes.

Wrinkles

Wrinkles are depressions in the skin’s surface that may be coarse or fine, depending on their depth. Wrinkle depth may extend from a few micrometers to several millimeters. Coarse wrinkles, often referred to as expression lines, appear on the forehead, outer corners of the eyes (crow’s feet) and as vertical lines on either side of the mouth (laugh lines). Fine wrinkles are the shallower network of lines or indentations that appear on our skin, especially in areas of facial movement (such as the eyes, mouth, upper lip, etc.).

Wrinkles occur as a result of:

• A reduction in muscle mass and skin thickness.
• Cross-linking of collagen and elastin in the dermis.
• Dehydration of the Stratum Corneum (SC).

This results in visible wrinkles on the surface of the skin and a loss of mechanical strength and elasticity.

Skin Discoloration

Changes in skin color are often associated with aging. Skin color is a composite of red, blue, yellow and brown coloration. This is the result of red oxygenated hemoglobin, yellow carotenoids and flavins and the brown melanin pigment of our skin. Hyperpigmentation spots are due to erratic melanocyte activity that is the result of cumulative Ultraviolet (UV) exposure. This is often associated with hypopigmentation (white spots), which also accompanies aging. The result is a mottled, older skin appearance made up of darker and depigmented areas. When we see an increase in yellow coloration in aged skin, it is the result of a decrease in brown melanin pigment along with a decline in red and blue-colored capillaries. In the case of cigarette smokers, the toxins cause a breakdown of elastin that also contributes to the yellow color of skin. This overall skin discoloration is often accompanied by an increase in broken veins.

While hyperpigmentation is most often associated with skin aging, we also see hypopigmentation due to a reduction in the number of melanocytes; there is a decline of 6-8% per decade after age 30, which accounts for the lighter skin color. This not only leads to a reduction in melanin (hypopigmentation), but it also accounts for a diminished protective capacity against UV exposure. Along with the decline in melanocytes, there is a reduction in both the number and functionality of the other dendritic cells of the epidermis (the Langerhans cells), which creates a lowered immune response for the skin. This results in decreased immune surveillance, which may account for the heightened incidence of premalignant and malignant lesions in aging skin.

Breakdown of Collagen and Elastin

The majority of age-dependent changes that occur in our skin happen in the dermis, which can lose from 20-80% of its thickness during the aging process. This is the result of changes in the fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) biosynthesis. Not only is the collagen and elastin produced at a slower rate, which impacts the skin’s inability to repair itself, but the organization of the protein also changes, affecting the skin’s structure.

The breakdown of collagen and elastin is controlled by the activity of Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes known as collagenase and elastase, respectively. Studies have shown that UV radiation activates these enzymes within hours of UVB exposure. Long-term elevation of the MMPs, which is typically found in people with prolonged exposure to sunlight, results in disorganized and clumped collagen and elastin that is characteristic of photodamaged skin.

Changes in elastin fibers are so characteristic in photoaged skin that the condition known as elastosis is considered a hallmark of photoaged skin. This is characterized by an accumulation of amorphous elastin protein and a breakdown in the typical structural layout, which results in decreased skin elasticity and tensile strength. This phenomenon accounts for why more mature skin takes longer to assume its original position when extended or pulled.

Dehydration

Like the collagen and elastin proteins of the dermis, the ground substance, or intercellular glue, that holds these proteins in place also undergoes age-related changes. There is less ground substance as we age, and distribution of GAGs, such as Hyaluronic Acid, changes as well. Studies have shown that the amount of Hyaluronic Acid found in the dermis starts to diminish as early as our forties. This loss, along with a comprised barrier layer in the epidermis, is most likely the cause of dehydration and loss of turgidity, which contributes to altered elasticity in aging skin.

In addition to dehydration in the dermis, studies have indicated a reduction in the moisture content of the epidermal Stratum Corneum (SC), which is most likely due to a reduction in the SC lipids, resulting in an inefficient ability to bind and retain water. The result is the appearance of fine lines and scales. Fortunately, application of moisturizers and the regular use of exfoliants (in particular, exfoliants containing Lactic Acid) can alleviate this problem.

A Slowdown of Cell Turnover

A discussion of the effects of aging on the epidermis would not be complete without including the effects of aging on cell turnover rates. Studies indicate that the epidermal turnover rate slows from 30-50% between our thirties and eighties. Studies have demonstrated that in young adults, the Stratum Corneum transit time was as quick as 20 days, whereas in older adults it stretched to 30 days or more.

Anti- Aging facial

Clayton Shagal facial's will provide  an improvement in the health of your skin. Reduces the appearance  of sun damage, fine lines, poor elasticity , enlarged pores and congestion by the use of enzymes, exfoliation,  vitamins, and proteins. Great for those over the age of 35.

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 Acne  

Acne is a condition that most people have experienced at some point in their lives. Whether seen as a teenager, adult or both, those who’ve been unfortunate enough to cross its path know what an incredibly frustrating condition it can be. But what exactly causes acne? Dermatologists and skin therapists alike have studied all possibilities, from diet to skin type to stress, and everything in between. While many issues may exacerbate acne, we now know that there are four main factors that actually contribute to acne.

The four main factors behind acne are:

• Sebaceous glands and sebum
• Cell proliferation
• Bacteria
• Type of follicle

Let’s explore these further to better understand the process of acne.

Sebaceous Glands and Sebum
Despite which form of acne is prevalent on a client, we known that sebum production or, oil, is the catalyst for the series of events that result in acne or skin breakouts. Clients often don’t realize they have even a mild form of acne and attribute their skin condition to excess oiliness. As skin care professionals, we know that this excess sebum is often associated with enlarged pores, a tendency toward follicle congestion and an oily T-zone. In addition, the problem may not be too much oil, but the type of oil. Thicker and stickier oil does not leak on to the surface quite as easily as thinner oil.

To really understand how we can affect this skin condition, we need to grasp what is actually occurring in the skin to trigger this excess sebum. In men, testosterone is secreted by the male sexual organs, and in women it originates from the ovaries and adrenal glands. In both sexes, testosterone is secreted into the body and enters into the sebaceous gland, where the enzyme 5-alpha reductase converts the testosterone into di-hydrotestosterone; this in turn stimulates sebum formation in the sebaceous glands.

Because 5-alpha reductase is sensitive to hormone levels, it goes into overdrive, causing an excess production of sebum when testosterone levels escalate. This is very noticeable during puberty. However, recent studies have shown that hormone levels alone are not solely responsible for sebum production. We know that 5-alpha reductase may increase its sensitivity to testosterone, triggering excess sebum production even when lower levels of the hormone are present. Unfortunately, the cause of this phenomenon is unknown. However, it does explain why excess sebum can occur when testosterone levels are not elevated.

Cell Proliferation
In a normal follicle (Image A), dead surface cells are continually sloughed from the epidermal canal and are deposited at the surface of the skin. However, when acne is present, a proliferation of cells occurs at the neck and extends to the follicle. It’s accompanied by excess sebum, which causes the cells and bacteria to stick together. The conglomeration of the sebum and cells leads to the formation of an impaction plug that provides a nice anaerobic environment for the bacteria to thrive in. This process, whereby abnormal desquamation of sebaceous-follicle epithelium results in altered keratinization, is often called retention hyperkeratosis. This (first stage) impacted follicle is often referred to as a micro comedone.

Researchers have found that there are fewer lamellar granules in the Stratum Granulosum of acneic skin. As the lamellar granules contain the desquamation of enzymes and lipids that comprise the barrier layer in the intercellular spaces, this could account for the accumulation of cells in the follicle canal. Likewise, acneic skin is more permeable around the sebaceous gland and follicle, which may lead to leakage and inflammation into surrounding tissues. Studies have shown that linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that is a component of the barrier lipid layer, is indeed deficient in acneic clients.

Bacteria
Bacteria in the follicle excrete a lipase enzyme to break down the sebum triglycerides into fatty acids and glycerol. The sebum is used as a food source and the free fatty acids are merely waste products that irritate the lining of the follicle. At this point, the disease may result in non-inflammatory lesions and simply produce closed comedones (whiteheads – Image B), which may turn into open comedones (blackheads – Image C) and expel their contents.

Type of Follicle
Inflamed lesions may also result in adult acne, whereby the follicle wall ruptures, forming a papule (Image D). If the break in the follicle is close to the surface, a pustule results (Image E). If it is deeper, a nodule forms. In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst develops. Regardless, Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMPs) enzymes are stimulated to help repair the damaged tissue while white blood cells invade the area, causing inflammation to set in.

Understanding Acne
Scientists are making progress in their understanding of acne; however, skin therapists everywhere know it’s not always easy to treat. Stress, diet, improper home care and make-up are just a few of many possible triggers outside of the four main causes of acne, but no one cause or trigger can truly be to blame. Still, remind your acneic clients to pay attention to any triggers that may further inflame their skin, and if the situation persists, advise them to visit a dermatologist.

In the meantime, we as skin therapists need to remember that acne may not always appear to be problematic. Even mildly acneic skin automatically becomes susceptible to sensitivity, although it may not appear as so. Understand that it is vital to treat our clients’ acne conditions with care and avoid any harsh ingredients or treatments that may further exacerbate the condition.

  Clayton Shagal's acne facial for any age who suffers from acne,or sebboric conditions.

 Deep Cleansing, and non-drying products are used to help heal the skin. High frequency and galvanic instruments help clean the pores.

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Is a Man's Skin Really Different?

The skin on a man versus that on a woman is significantly different. The ability to grow a beard is just one obvious distinction among many others that are not so evident. From a structural point of view, some of the differences include skin thickness, collagen density, loss of collagen as we age, texture and hydration. These differences in the skin may in fact create differences in the treatment room. Let’s look at each of these aspects in more detail.

Skin Thickness
We know that the thickness of the skin varies with the location, age and sex of the individual. Additionally, androgens (i.e. testosterone), which cause an increase in skin thickness, accounts for why a man’s skin is about 25 percent thicker than that of a woman’s. A man’s skin also thins gradually with age, whereas the thickness of a woman’s skin remains constant until about the age of fifty. After menopause, her skin will thin significantly, which will continue as she ages.

Collagen Density
Regardless of age, men have a higher collagen density than women; this is the ratio of collagen to the thickness of the skin. Researchers believe that the higher collagen density accounts for why women appear to age faster than men of the same age. When considering intrinsic (genetically-programmed) aging of the skin, it has been said that women are about 15 years older than men of the same age. Of course, the role of daylight exposure in skin aging, combined with the fact that men do not use sunscreen as often as women, may account for why we do not readily notice. Extrinsic aging from UV radiation can add years to a man’s skin and negate the benefit of slower intrinsic aging.

Loss of Collagen
The physical signs of aging in adults, such as wrinkles and laxity to the tissue, are closely related to the collagen content of the skin. Both men and women lose about one percent of their collagen per year after their 30th birthday. For women, however, this escalates significantly in the first five years after menopause then slows down to a loss of two percent per year.

Texture
From a superficial perspective, the texture of a man’s skin is very different than a woman’s. The texture (on a man) is rougher, and the Stratum Corneum is thicker. There is also a difference in the composition of sebum and its production. After puberty, sebum production is greater in males than in females, which is attributed to androgen secretions and accounts for why men have longer lasting acne. The cells in a man’s sebaceous glands have more positive receptors for androgens, which explains why they produce more sebum. Interestingly, redness, proliferation of the sebaceous glands and swelling of the skin on the nose, (a condition known as rhinophyma that is found in extreme cases of rosacea) is only seen in males. It is unknown if this condition is controlled by androgens in a similar capacity as sebum production.

Hydration
Puberty also stimulates the appearance of facial hair in men and gives rise to sweat secretions. Males have more Lactic Acid in their sweat, which accounts for a lower pH (.05 lower) when compared to female sweat. Men also sweat more than twice as much as women and are more prone to sweating, which is stimulated by an increase in body temperature. However, male skin appears to be better hydrated than women’s, which is fortunate, as men are less likely to apply a hydrating moisturizer to their body or face. Perhaps the excess sweating and production of Lactic Acid, a known natural humectant for the skin, is responsible for the level of tissue hydration.

Treating a Man’s Skin
The health of a man’s skin is, of course, just as important as that of a woman. But while treatment for a man sometimes differs from a woman, remember that the same amount of care must be taken regardless of the sex of the client. Even if the man appears to have tough, resilient skin, he may still have internal issues or surround himself in environments that sensitize him. In every instance, use the consultation card to familiarize yourself with the client, and never assume that a man needs any less gentle care than a woman.

Signature Men's Facial 

Sensitive skin 

Restoring health and balance to sensitized skin must begin with a basic clarification of terms. If your client complains of tight, red, stinging, itchy, reactive, flushing, blushing or hot skin, she may describe her skin as “sensitive”. In fact, an estimated 50% of our global industry’s skin care clients describe their skin in this way.

 But here’s the crucial difference: if you have truly genetically-inherited sensitive skin, then customer is always the tendency is innate and cannot be fully erased but it can be treated. It’s in your DNA!

But here’s the good news! Sensitization is a response to an external or introduced factor (or combination of these factors). It is not driven by genetics. Generally, it is triggered by lifestyle choices (including too much stress) or exposure to environmental chemicals. So it is possible that sensitization may be arrested, moderated and fully reversed with changes in environment, habits, etc.

TREATMENT STRATEGIES: WHERE TO BEGIN?

The first step in breaking the cycle of sensitization is removing as many triggers from the contact-sphere as possible. Lifestyle choices which are under the client’s control are an obvious place to start, such as smoking, alcohol and caffeine consumption. Likewise, stress may be managed to some degree through other lifestyle choices, such as the decision

to exercise, pursue meditation, receive alternative therapies and massages, etc.

The other aspect of environmental sensitization over which we all have less—if any control—is the presence of irritants in our environment. These irritants may be natural, like pollen, but most are manmade. These are in our world whether we want them there or not. Dealing with the effects of these chemicals upon the skin requires a regimen of care based around ingredients which arrest inflammation and restore damaged tissue.

• Cleansing the skin properly is the first step in strategic care. As mentioned, alkaline soaps and hot water set sensitization into motion. Clients need to use an extremely gentle, sulfate-free, non-stripping gel or cream cleanser which will fortify the protective barrier function without leaving a residue. If the client is sensitized to water, the product may also be removed with damp cotton or a soft cloth. Ingredients to look for in this type of cleanser, which also is appropriate for newly resurfaced skin, include Raspberry, a rich source of phytochemicals including ellagic acid that acts as an antioxidant, soothing Cucumber and Panthenol (provitamin B5) that helps to regenerate tissues.

• A spritz of calming spray is a recommended next step. Look for a soothing, hydrating mist to immediately relieve irritation—this sort of product may be used by the client throughout the day at times of irritation. The newest and most effective formulas now contain cocktails of not only anti-inflammatory agents such as Avena Sativa, but ingredients to fight neurogenic inflammation, such as Red Hogweed. Oat extract is rich in oat Avenanthramides which are the active fractions of Oat that have been widely studied and proven to have natural anti-irritant and anti-redness properties, Ginger and Bisabolol (derived from Chamomile) when combined work synergistically to reduce inflammation-induced itch, redness and irritation. Combine this with Red Hogweed which targets neurogenic inflammation by limiting the production of pro-inflammatory agents (such as prostaglandins and you have a complete system to target inflammation.

• Masques are especially helpful to the sensitized client, since the prolonged contact of a calming relief masque product with the skin delivers lasting effects. Typically, an appropriate masque of this type may be applied to spot-areas, or to the entire face, either for flare-ups as emergency relief, or for regular therapeutic use. Key ingredients to select include pharmaceutical grade Colloidal Oatmeal, Red Hogweed, Mushroom (Cordyceps sinesis) extracts that reduce short and long term inflammation and redness. Mugwort (Artemesia vulgaris) and algae extracts soothe irritation, and provide a light film to reduces redness from UV exposure and chemical irritants.

• Serum concentrates speed the healing process at times of severe inflammation (even post- cosmetic medical procedures), and ease the discomfort of long-term sensitization. A concentrated booster can be the needed “brakes” on runaway inflammation. Look for serums containing the latest newcomer Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15 a peptide that reduces discomfort and pain by lowering pro-inflammatory mediators in the skin that are associated with neurogenic inflammation. Also recommended: Portulaca Oleraca Extract Lipids, Sunflower Seed, Evening Primrose and Avocado Oils to reinforce the barrier lipid layer that keeps environmental chemicals from penetrating the skin.

• Appropriate moisturizer and UV protection are also essential to managing sensitization, since dehydration, excess heat and free radical damage often are syndrome triggers. Sensitization clients who are fond of exfoliating may use an ultra-gentle exfoliant, only on the condition that the lipid barrier is not damaged. In this case, recommend an ultrafine product which delicately polishes fragile skin with microparticles of rice bran and rice enzymes. Also note that even conventional washcloths and towels can irritate sensitized skin; recommend that the client use a high-tech microfiber sponge cloth for cleanser and masque removal.

• In terms of moisturizers, often a rich, medium-to-heavy weight product works best, to form a substantial layer of lipid barrier protections and humectant hydration around tenderized areas like cheeks, nostrils, cuticles, or any other hot spots. UV daylight defense product should be a physical block rather than a chemical sunscreen. Monitor this usage carefully, as sun-protection often is a trigger for inflammation among sensitized clients.

Professional treatments for sensitized skin must always emphasize suppression of the inflammation cascade. The hallmark of this approach is the “less” rule: less aggressive, less intrusive, less product, gentle temperatures, gentle touch. Use warm steam at least an arm’s length from the body, rehydrate and infuse soothing complexes on the skin with a Dr Lucas Pulverizator, and always have cool towels on hand. Manual lymphatic drainage, pressure-point work and aromatherapy often prove invaluable in calming the client’s reactive responses.

Aloe Hydrating Facial

Infuse your skin with Aloe all natural skin care products. Perfect for all skin types. Includes cleanse, tone, mask, and moisturize.

45 min Aloe Hydrating facial  $59 * no extractions

60 min Aloe Hydrating Facial $ 69

 1hr Herbal wrap & 45 min Aloe Facial $129

  Spa Facial

A relaxing Facial for all skin types custom to your needs. Cleanse, tone, mask, extractions          45 min $ 55

60 min Massage & 60 min Signature Facial

 $119

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